John Galliano, To Dedicate The Spring 2021 Collection “Co-Ed” To The Most Intimate, Carnal And Spiritual Dance, The Tango
The social distancing that we have learned to know, metabolize and that forces us to give up a certain kind of “intimacy”, was the driving force that drove the designer and Creative Director of Maison Margiela, the legendary John Galliano, to dedicate the SS21 collection “Co-ed” to the most intimate, carnal and spiritual dance, the tango. Inspired by the desire to regain physical contact after months of isolation, Galliano takes us to Tuscany to dance.
Maison Margiela did not show in a classic way, nor did she put on a digital show, instead she presented the collection through a video entitled S.W.A.L.K. II, shot in Tuscany by director Nick Knight. S.W.A.L.K. II is the second and last episode of Galliano’s film project launched last year, in which he recounts his personal interpretation of the peculiarity and canons of tango, linking them to the sense of regeneration and rebirth that only dance, and tango in particular, can give at a time like the one we are going through. The film also tells how the techniques developed and used for the tailoring collections are then specially modified to be used in ready-to-wear production.
As we were saying, the tango is the primary and dominant inspiration for the SS21 “Co-ed” collection, celebrated through the symbolic colors of the dance born in Argentia such as red, pinstripe grey, and cream. The craftsmanship is expressed through sartorial silhouettes, the cotton muslin and tulle dresses, created with circular cuts that evoke the “wet look” effect, are a reference to neoclassical marble sculpture, the prints evoke movement and the jackets, built with different layers of fabric, tell their story and time.
In this SS21, Galliano also experimented with the concept of “storied garments”, clothes/fabrics with a story behind. Real vintage finds, restored and readapted as completely new limited edition garments or accessories and sold in the stores of the maison under the Recicla label. Like the cathartic process of tango, reusing garments with a history behind them is a liberating practice: it releases the energy of the old and reinvigorates the fabric brought back to life.
A story of rebirth, re-appropriation, sensuality, carnality and spirituality that we can admire on the notes and movements of the most evocative dance that exists, the tango.