Raf Simons AW21 Is A Tribute To Things The Designer Loves Most, Abstract Graphic Knits With Knife-Sharp Tailoring, And Poise
The proposal for FW21 signed by Raf Simons was full of garments characterized by large volumes, a defined chromatic variation and a genderless aesthetic. Beyond these characteristics, the collection stood out for the particularity of its details. Layering and color are at the forefront of Raf Simons’ Fall/Winter 21 collection. Simons has always kept his work interesting throughout his career, and this collection is no different. “The collection is about things I love – things I have always love, that are always there in every collection, in the processes behind it, and the clothes,” Simons says.
As the designer himself explained, his fall/winter 2021 collection was about the things he loves and referenced visual elements from his archive of almost 30 years. Quilted coats, oversized sweaters, wide vests or flared pants were some of the garments that defined his proposal. In addition, on this occasion the details had a special prominence. The digital presentation was filled with a series of keywords such as ‘Ataraxia’ – a state of freedom from emotional disturbance and anxiety. ‘Dichotomy’ – division into two parts or classifications. ‘Devotion’ – an affection, admiration or great love. And ‘Allegiance’ – support for and loyalty to someone or something. Perhaps some of these words are a nod to the state of the world and a way of representing how we’re all feeling.
Undoubtedly, one of the most striking details of the collection were the skeleton hand-shaped bracelets. These accessories —satin-coated and conceived in various colors— were placed on top of knitted sweaters and warm garments, hugging the models’ bodies. We see oversized and layered silhouettes in this collection, with quilted A-line coats, gigantic knits, flared trousers and puffy vests. Youthful jewelry featuring hearts and logos accompany the looks. The color palette combined with the silhouettes creates a fusion between couture and youth culture with the reference to archival collections. These nods to the past combined with fresh pieces and looks show worlds colliding, offering a new outlook. Simons said, “I don’t want to show clothes, I want to show my attitude, my past, present and future.”
The sleeves, gloves and bags welcome the new label that Raf Simons has presented for the coming season. On it, we can read “Carefully crafted in Antwerp, Belgium” and his name written as R. Simons. In addition, his typography reminds us of the garment labels of yesteryear and words he loves, such as Devotion, are also present on the label. The bold collection highlights the true extent of Simons’ creativity and ambition when it comes to his work.